Bangkok, Thailand>, Jul 28, 2009

Bangkok, the City of Angels as they call it.  I’ve lost track how many times I’ve been here now, at least 7 or 8 times.  Bangkok is the hub for exploration of southeast Asia, so if you are traveling in this part of the world, you’ll need to come here at least once.  There is a lot to see here, palaces, temples, ruins, but now that’s I’ve seen most of the sites in Bangkok, all I find myself doing here is eating and shopping!

Thai food is the best food in the world I think, it’s a mix of the best of Indian and Chinese cuisines and there is definitely is no shortage of food here!  Honestly I think no Thai goes hungry, because there are food stalls everywhere and everything is so cheap and O so good.  The best food is usually found on the streets at the various stalls.  You can find anything type of Thai dish you want there and all for much less then in the restaurants.

For those that worry about eating off the streets, I’ve always stuck to following guidelines:
1. Make sure there are other people eating there (then you know people enjoy the food there), and
2. Make sure they cook it right then and there.  Don’t eat anything that looks like its been sitting there for a while.

That’s it! Those are my rules.  Knock on wood, I’ve always had a good stomach after these meals. Honestly those that get sick, I think don’t follow these rules, or just plain eat something like monkey brain, dog, or scorpion. Basically things they probably shouldn’t eat in the first place! A lot can be said for experiences new foods, but sometimes being plain stupid will get you sick!

After eating there is always lots of shopping to do in Bangkok.  There are big department stores like MBK and then there are the street vendors everywhere and the weekend market at Chatachuk.  This time around I didn’t get to go to Chatachuk Market, but if you are ever there on a weekend, THIS is the place to go.  A shopping bonanza covering 35 acres! You can find all types of things there, shirts, skirts, silks, furniture, souvenirs, even baby tigers and rare birds if you look deep enough!  Of course the latter are illegal to buy or sell, so be careful if you actually do find these items in the depths of the market.

Khao San Road (pronounced cow-san), is the backpacker area of Bangkok.  Its where most, if not, all foreigners travelling through stay and hang out.  Some may think going to a foreign country and staying with other travellers makes no sense. It does make sense, because for those travelling solo you’ll find like minded people, and at the end of the day, after walking around and experiences everything new and exciting, its cool to just come back and chill in something that is a bit familiar and share some stories with your fellow traveller.

Here on Khao San Road you’ll find internet cafes and many, many bars.  Last night I ended first talking with some old Aussie men.  That got a little boring, so I changed bars and ended up meeting with some Irish guys who were travelling through Bangkok on their way to the islands, for the infamous full moon party on Koh Phangan.  Funny enough all four of the guys had spend 3 months, last summer, living in Toronto!  They couldn’t stop telling me how much they loved the city and how much better it was to many other cities they had visited.  Said there was a lot to do and great parties and lots of good looking girls of course!  We ended up hanging out for a few hours, but before I left them, myself very drunk and looking for some Micky Ds, I got them a good deal on a ping pong show!  They were very thankful. 

Getting a good deal in Bangkok, let alone any country where there is no fixed price is a great skill to have.  Just like choosing a food stall I have some rules to getting a good deal anywhere in the world:
1. Walk around and try to gauge the correct price of the item you want.  If you travel, you know the same items are usually everywhere you go,
2. Go first thing in the morning or before noon, for vendors they are more likely to give you a good deal in the morning, because for them they believe it will set the tone for sales the rest of the day,
3. Get a price in your head you would paid, then start at 1/3 or ½ the price they ask you for.  So if they say 1000 bhat, you say 300 bhat,
4. Ever back down too much from your price  If you are not getting your price, sometimes the best thing to do is away.  Guaranteed they will say “ok, ok” and sell it to you or if they don’t just go to the next stall and start at #1 again!

One key I think everyone should know is NEVER EVER feel sorry for them. Why? Never feel sorry for them, because they will never sell for less then they bought the item for!  Trust me.  You can bargain your ass off, but you can be almost sure they still made at least 10% off that sale. Since usually they start at 10000x the price they got it for!  And if they do actually sell it for less then they bought (which you will never know), they will just get the next foreigner that comes along and screw them!  Lol that’s usually one of my tactics.  I just say, hey see that next person there, just screw them and give me a good deal.  I always say that with a smile, that usually works It works, because the next guy will feel sorry and still think they got a good deal. Most likely a good deal they didn’t get, but don’t tell them

Here is a good example of how much they mark-up items.  About 8 years ago in Bali, one of my first trips, I got totally ripped off.  I wanted some necklace, the lady started at 50000 rupiah (maybe about $5 CDN), I got her down to 15000 rupiah. I was so happy I worked her down.  The next day while shopping I saw the same necklace at another stall, what was the asking price? 1000 rupiah! Again, lesson of the day, always shop around first before buying :)  Remember it’s all a game. Also remember at the end of the day if you really want it, don’t haggle on what amounts to pennies in your currency!  And trust me you’ll get so caught up in bargaining, you’ll end up doing this!

My last day in Bangkok came with a good surprise.  I met up with Emile again!  Like I said before Bangkok is a major hub.  He was in town to catch a flight to Yangon, Burma and me, off to Colombo, Sri Lanka.  The last time I had seen Emile was a few weeks back in China in Guilin.  It was cool to catch up and share some laughs.  Since the last time I saw him, he’d been to Hong Kong where he went on a bit of a shopping spree!  He bought a new lens for his camera, a new 2-sim mobile phone, and best of all he bought the same netbook I have. He liked mine so much, he had to get the same one. [I have to say, buying a netbook is one of the best things I’ve bought in a long time.  Its so convenient, especially in the age of wi-fi, to have a little portable computer with you all the time.] 

Anyways, we hung out for a few hours and then we went our separate ways again.  Ah the life of a traveler, always on the go to some place new and exciting.  For me, the next place is the motherland, Sri Lanka……

Ruwan

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Bangkok, Thailand>, Jul 26, 2009

So its been almost 6 weeks of me travelling around on my own.  I have to say its been interesting, full of great sites and interesting places and people.  It’s definitely a different experience travelling on your own.  I remember a movie I recently watched called “A Map for Saturday” about one man’s experience backpacking for one year.  He too shared similar thoughts, but at the same time said there were high-highs and low-lows.  I totally concur with that view!

While travelling alone I’ve actually met a bunch of other travellers. With some, like Emile, we travelled together for a week or more, others I’ve spent the day with or just shared a drink.  All good times.  But then there are the times you are alone, sometimes its great to have some “me-time”, but sometimes it can become very lonely and boring.  Boring more than lonely I would say.

I remember going to my cooking classes in Chiang Mai and for three days learned to cook Thai food and talked with many different travellers from around the world. Those days were fantastic, but then I would get back to my hostel I would get this feeling of boredom and even loneliness sometimes.  It was such an odd feeling to be so happy and enjoying meeting new people, to a total opposite feeling of boredom and indifference, all in the same day! Its all a part of travelling solo, I knew that.  Just learning to accept it is sometimes easier said then done.

Anyways, usually when I’m feeling like that I’ll go for a walk around the town or take a walk on the beach like I did last night.  You can be sure someone here will talk to you, but not necessarily talking to you because they want to, but because they want to sell you something! But hey, its interaction right

The one other thing I’ve noticed about myself lately, is that I’ve become more indecisive about what I want to do, where I want to go.  Too many great options, with a lot of time on your hands! Leaving China 8 days early definitely threw off my schedule and plans.  Sometimes I honestly think some of this indecisiveness is because this is my fourth straight year in Asia.  I think I’m all asia-ed out! I’ve basically seen everything I’ve wanted to see in Asia, specifically the Orient, except for Tibet of course.  Funny not knowing where to go next, fits in with what I quoted in my first blog entry, “Tourists don’t know where they’ve been, travelers don’t know where they’re going.”.  How fitting.

Soon I’ll be going to Sri Lanka to meet up with family.  So that should be a good break from the solo life.  I haven’t been back in 10 years, so I know my extended family back home is excited to see me as I am to see them. 

Things I’ve learnt about myself and things thus far on the trip? Travelling by myself is good.  I have the freedom to do whatever I want and make plans on the fly. Learnt not to book (specially flights) anything in advance, as time spent in certain places change, moods changes, destinations change.  Canada, I totally appreciate living there and calling it my home, we back home have a lot to be proud of.  What else? I miss having a bit of a routine, water pressure, I miss my family and friends back home, and most of all I miss my girlfriend Kamal.

Cheers,

Ruwan

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Phuket, Thailand>, Jul 24, 2009

I remember coming to Patong Beach about 8 years ago.  So when the opportunity came to meet up again with some Americans and Aussies friends I made, I was like sure why not, down south is always fun!  Soon upon arriving in the Patong Beach area, I realized why I haven’t visited this place again in the many times I‘ve been to Thailand since.  I think I must have blocked out the memory of this place.  This place is disgusting!

Men with Thai women EVERYWHERE
Men with Thai men EVERYWHERE
Men with Thai ladyboys EVERYWHERE

Massages
Suits
Tuk tuks

No I don’t want a f-cking massage or a suit or a tuk tuk! This place is like a cornucopia of Asian ass for old greasy white men, brown men, Arabic men, young men, you name it, that dude is here somewhere with a Thai woman, Thai man or Thai ladyboy on his arm, walking the streets like this place is some “I got yellow fever and I want to flaunt it” theme park! Sawadee kaaaaaaa, sir, do you want a massage (all said in unison from at least 4-5 Thai women)? F-ck NO!

If its not a massage, then you got some scrawny little Indian man saying “hey my friend, you want a suit, Armani? Yaar, come take a look”  No bhenchod, I don’t want to take a look!

Funny I never realized how many “friends” I had in Thailand till I came to Patong!  Everybody was my “friend”.  Most of the local Indians couldn’t figure out where I was from, so they would try to talk to me in Hindi or Arabic.  When they ask “my friend, where you from?” I would throw them totally off by saying Japan or Mongolia or something.  Usually with a big smile and we’d laugh and they would leave me alone. Well leave me alone most of the time that is!

Ladyboy?! I know you’re asking, what’s that?! Well I remember the first time I came to Thailand years back, I was greeted at the front desk of my hotel by one, his name was Boonchu and he/she was the most feminine man I’d ever seen (to that point).  He was full-out in a pink pantsuit and had the highest voice I’d heard (to that point).  He was definitely a ladyboy.  A ladyboy is a transvestite.  You see them in varying degrees across Thailand, before, during and after surgeries.  Funny enough, in this land of Buddhism, ladyboys are tolerated and accepted, homosexuality is accepted.  Ladyboys are the third gender here in Thailand, sometimes you will even see a third washroom for them!  Since that first meeting at that hotel, all ladyboys are known as “Boonchus” to me.

Outside of Thailand transvestites are usually very masculine looking and you can tell they are/were guys, but in Thailand, I honestly can say you would never know if a ladyboy or a woman just walked in front of you.  Some of the most beautiful Asian girls I’ve seen, in full-out bikinis sometimes, were actually ladyboys! NO JOKE. DEAD SERIOUS.  I think it’s the slim Asian bodies that allows for the usual distinctions between man and women, women and transvestite to blur. Nevertheless, ladyboys and Thailand go hand in hand.

Wow this place sounds nuts doesn’t it! Well it is! J But even in all this craziness, I did have fun strolling the beaches, shopping, and especially had fun on my last night in town.  One of the Aussies, Mel, had her 29th birthday (again) that day.  So me, Joey and her went out for a nice seafood dinner and then after dinner ended up on one of the bar alleys off Bangla road, the main area in town. 

That first stop had us playing big Jenga with a Thai gansta covered in tattoos and at least 2 ladyboys, I think! What’s “big” jenga? Well it’s the same as your favourite game of Jenga back home, but with mega blocks! Next game we played was what I can only call “hammering nail into piece of wood”.  What’s that? Its standing around a cut log, putting 2 or 3 nails into the cut wood and then passing around a hammer and trying to slam the nail down into the wood.  That’s its! Who would think hammering nails into wood would  this much fun! Except that I sucked at it! I got beat on every occasion by ladyboys and girls!

Next stop was the Coyote Bar, run by a Norwegian guy named Freddie. Freddie had a Mohawk. As the night went on, I learnt about what Patong really was and how it worked.  I asked him why do you see so many foreigners here with Thai woman?  Simple he said, cheap p-ssy! Where else could an ugly, old white guy get a young lady of his choice to sleep with him? Thailand of course!  Not only do these girls sleep with them, they act like they are their girlfriends for as long as the guy will pay for.  Usually this means most of their vacation, all expenses paid too. Its common to see elsewhere in Thailand, Thai “girlfriends” in the airport, at fancy restaurants, in the morning at breakfast with their “boyfriends”.   

So why is prostitution so prevalent here? Mainly because minimum wage is about 160 bhat a day (about $5 CDN).  What does a Thai lady, ladyboy, or gay man charge, well Freddie said the price varies, but I’ve heard about 1500 bhat an hour and I‘m sure varies with the amount of time you spend with them.  Considering that’s at least 10x the minimum wage, you can see why the sex trade is such big business here in Thailand. 

Anyways, that rest of that night was full of people watching.  We watched how guys would walk down the street (most thinking they were the sh-t) as beautiful Thai women approached them from every angle, asking them what they wanted, trying to get drinks bought for them, trying to draw up business.  I have to say that night was interesting and eye opening for sure.  When you start to party it up with ladyboys, Thai prostitutes, white man with mohwaks, topless fat men with marker written all over their bodies, and Thai gangsters you start to see why this place is like a fantasyland! 

So back to the title of my blog.  So is Patong Beach the seediest place in Thailand? Well actually NO it isn’t! Pattaya is the sex capital of Thailand.  Patong Beach is one road, Bangla Road, with a few alleyways with bars and go-go bars.  Pattaya on the other hand, I’ve been told, is multiple roads and crossroads, all with bars, go-go bars, ping-pong shows, foreign men, ladyboys, prostitutes, massage spots and I’m sure scrawny Indian dudes asking to make you a suit! WTF! And here I thought Patong was seediest place in Thailand J

Ru

P.S. I’m here in low/monsoon season and don’t even want to know what high season is like!

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Chiang Mai, Thailand>, Jul 20, 2009

Visiting the longneck tribes of Northern Thailand and Burma have always been something I’ve wanted to experience.  They were one of the two reasons I came to Chiang Mai (the other being cooking school).  I remember first reading about them in the National Geographic.  Funny, the National Geographic has been the inspiration behind many of the places I’ve wanted to see and is the reason I got into photography. All this inspiration from one birthday gift my parents got me back when I was 12 years old.  For my friends with little kids now, you can’t go wrong with a gift like this! I still have that subscription to this day.

For those not familiar with the Longneck tribe, the women in this tribe have elongated necks supported by multiple brass rings.  It’s a form of beauty to the people in this tribe, so much so that from a young age girls get their first set of rings. Note, the name “longneck” is a bit misleading, their necks aren’t actually elongated, each added brass ring pushes down on their collarbones and ribcages, making their necks look longer.

The tribe is located about 3 hours north of Chiang Mai, close to the Burmese border.  The people in this tribe are actually refugees from Burma and live in Thailand under special visas.  These visas, unfortunately, only allow them to live as “longnecks” for tourist purposes.  If they were to remove the rings and try and pursue a modern life, they would have to go back to Burma.  For most, going back to Burma is not an option, as the people there have been oppressed for years.  So this is their existence, living in a tourist trap.

I knew that visiting them would be a tourist trap and that they were only there for the tourist sake, but I had to visit and see for myself.  After driving 3 hours with our tour guide, Banana, and driver, Tiger, we got to the “village”.  The village was actually set up with multiple ethnic tribes on “show”, the Longnecks, Big Ears and one other tribe whose name escapes me right now.  As you walk down the village path, all around you are souvenirs for sale and tribeswomen all sitting down, all dressed up for you to take picture.  Before we arrived, Banana had told us to buy some candies for the kids, which I did.  Little did I realize that when I got to the village, it would feel more like a zoo then a village. I would give the candy to a little kid in exchange for their picture.  It was a bit sad, most would smile, but just think if all you did was sit around all day for people to come take pictures of you, how would you feel?

While I was there I wondered what it would have been like to truly experience this longneck culture as it existed 50 years ago? I’m sure the experience would have been fascinating, for both them and me. Nevertheless, it is what it is, they make a good living being on display and given they have no other options, I believe they are content.  I was told that all the money made from sale of souvenirs, scarves, etc was all equally split amongst all the tribe community, so that was good to know.

On the return trip to Chiang Mai, we stopped by another minority village.  This time, this village was not set up for tourists, but was an actually minority village, the Hmong tribe. The Hmong, are found through Northern Thailand, Burma and into Laos.

Now this experience I found more real, at least to me, you got to see how these people lived.  It reminded me a bit about Cambodia, lots of smiling kids and on the flipside, poverty.  But even in all this poverty, these people always seem so happy.  It shows you, you don’t need to have a lot to be happy. 

All in all, today was a good trip, I’m glad I got to experience it.

Cheers,

Ruwan

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Bangkok, Thailand>, Jul 09, 2009

Jeff’s tasting notes:
Meal worms:
Grubs:
Crickets:
Grasshopper:

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Osaka, Japan>, Jul 30, 2009

Mickey, Mickey, Mickey, on the third shout I caught his attention he spun around in the station and headed my way to the wickets of the shin Osaka station.  Mickey had come from Kyoto to spend one last day in Osaka before moving onto Tokyo. The plan was to hike from the train station of Ashiyagawa over the mountains of Fubukiwaato, then onto the summit of Mount Rokko before descending to Arima onsen, which has one of the oldest hotsprings in Japan but first of all we had to get a locker for all of Mickey’s luggage.

We got off the train at Asahiyagawa and walked for about 15 minutes through the reidential area before reaching the start of the hiking trail. The first thing you see is a waterfall around 10 metres high, a nice way to start before the strenuous climb of clamouring up the rocky mountain at times using chains and ladders to help with the ascent.

My son had raced way ahead, no affects of the sweltering heat and every now and then I had to yell, just to know if he was alright as he was out of sight. Mickey and I continued to talk even though we were breathing hard and both struggling, but I was inspired to keep going whenever I saw an elderly Japanese person coming from the other way, each time we were greeted with a konichiwa.

Just before we reached the summit, we finely caught up to my son, he had made friends with a group of three Japanese unniversity students and had been walking with them. At the summit we took a group photo and then I thought we would go our seperate way as there are a variety of trails from here and we were going on the longest one, but they were also going on the same trail so we hiked the rest of the way with them.

With the unniversity students leading the way as well as my son, we ventured on towards the summit of Mount Rokko 943 metres high. I think this section was the hardest and we soon lagged behind often stopping for breaks, gasping for breathe, slowly ascending but through all this, Mickey and I still were talking away just like we were sitting in bar with a nice beer.

Eventually at the summit of Mount Rokko,sitting on top was a restraunt for all the hikers, the 3 japanese who were with us got some curry and Japanese noodles to eat while we sat and had a drink even though the restraunt served beerMickey and I settled for water and juice from the vending machine. As we left the restraunt something changed it was as if the 3 young japanese were starting to tire, it was not MIckey and I no longer trailing behind but them with the descent being a real easy hike on a rather flat surface we reached the township of Arima made famous for its hotsprings, walking through town we found the bus stop and said our farewells to the three Japanese, who were really friendly bunch of guys. 

Mickey had about 30 minutes to spare before he had to catch the bus back to Osaka has he had planned to meet Yasuyo, another Osakan member from TB, tired hot and sweating we saw a sign for the nearest public hotsprings but with Mickey ahving not much time we had to settle on a foot hotspring to soothe the tiring  aches and pains away. We relaxed and continued talking till it was time for Mickey to go.

After Mickey left , Rei and I went and soaked in the reddy, brown water of the famous Arima onsen, the water contains minerals that have helped heal people who have had skin disorders. Arima onsen is one of the 3 oldest hotsprings in Japan.

Having met Mickey at the Osakan meet up and now gone hiking with him, I feel we’ve become good friends so if you ever get the chance to meet him don’t hesitate, truly a nice guy.

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Bagan, Myanmar>, Mar 11, 2009

Bagan is simply amazing. Despite the intense heat we managed to get round a lot of the temples over 2 days. The first day we hired out rather crap bikes and peddled along the road and on the dusty bumpy tracks to the temples. Within a few minutes Simon discovered a puncture but we found a handy roadside bike repair ’shop’ ( a young chap sitting on a chair with some tools) and he foudn that the inner tube was knackered (it had about 9 holes in it) so replaced it and charged us a few bucks for the trouble.

The only problem with Bagan is that the main temples are completely surrounded in locals selling stuff and they really really go for the sale. It was a case of being chased by people selling postcards, replicas of temples, paintings etc etc but the temples are well worth a visit and we did stop to chat to the kids selling stuff, they were a good bunch bless them. The bikes were fun and good to get out and about. We stopped at a lovely little veggie restaurant for lunch (not the one in the LP, the one opposite, which was cheaper and more friendly) and drank a lot of water, it is seriously hot in this place!

The second day we took the horse and carriage option. We were a little reluctant to do this as we were worried about the condition of some of the horses but the one we used was well fed and had looked after feet etc. We were taken around the temples and really enjoyed the day, the temples differ so much in size and views, some can be climbed up and others just walked around.

Bagan itself is not a bad spot for a few days with plenty of restaurants and places for a beer. We really enjoyed the time here and the temples are well worth a look. The heat is intense but somehow bareable.

Again, so many gorgeous pictures from here, inlcuding one of a little girl with full Burmese style face cream/sun block who smiled for the camera for me but sadly these have all been lost.

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Mandalay, Myanmar>, Mar 14, 2009

We arrived at the train station early to catch the 6am train to Mandalay. And of course the train was late. It was great waiting on the platform though with all the locals looking at us in amazement. Most were sitting in that uncomfrtable Asian squatting position in their feet, drinking tea and no doubt talking about those 2 strange foreigners hanging about. We watched a young monk kicking a football about with some friends and waved at little kids around us. The train pulled up and after working out which carriage we were in, we found our seats and got comfy. The seats were great, really big and quite comfy, worn and dirty of course but we are used to this by now. The trip was very very hot and all the carriage windows were wide open the whole way, enabling us to hang out of them to watch the passing countryside, whcih reallt is beautiful. People watching here is brilliant, and every time we stopped at a station we hung out of the window and waved at the locals, bringing a lot of smiles and laughs. Of course we took a lot of brilliant photos but sadly we can’t share these. This trip to Mandalay was brilliant and despite the heat and dust, a lot more comfy than the bus. We sat opposite a friendly couple who gave us Burmese sweets and seemed to really love that we were so happy and interested to see the Burmese countryside and people.

We arrived in Mandalay and walked to the hostel, which was full, but found a hotel just rond the corner which was cheap and OK. Mandalay itself is not that great in our opinion but the food is amazing. We found the best street food here, a chapati stand that cooks the most amazing chapatis served up with curried delights for mere pence. We did indeed eat here every night.

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Bangkok, Thailand>, Apr 15, 2008

Last day of Songrkan Waterfestival my mother and I decided to get really, really wet
First we celebrated the Festival at Central World and met my friend Rosi and her boyfriend Patrick.
Later we drove to Khao San Road cause we heard that the best Party during Songkran is at Khao San Road!
And I really have to say: it’s true!
Fortunately my good friend Sun lives at Khao San Road and i met him there!
We joined the Party there! I was soooooooooooooooo wet and i had sooooooooooooo much fun!
We went 3 or 4 times during night to his room and changed the clothes until we decided it’s time to stay dry now
I really try to join the party next year at Khao San Road too …. ha, ha, ha

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Sarinbuana, Indonesia>, Jul 30, 2009

I stayed there for a couple of weeks in July and I can only say that is the perfect place, for whatever you want to do. It is 2 hrs drive from the airport, passing through amazing traditional balinese villages and ricefields, leaving behind what the western civilization already ruined in Bali. You have all the necessary comfort, toilets, hot water, restaurant with a special menu that gets as close as possible to local food, local staff from the neighbouring village, that probably are the nicest people on the planet. You can do yoga, have a massage, do treks on the mountains ( temples, ricefields, summits, you’ll find beautiful deserted beaches reachable only by bike, assist to local ceremonies from the village (not the shitty staged ones that happen in the tourist areas), learn about balinese music and culture from locals that are still locals
I highly recommend the place if you are one of the travellers that love to discover places, not to stay in a hotel and get drunk every day if possible.
Really folks, Bali has so much to offer!

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